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BIKELAND > FORUMS > ZX12R ZONE.com > Thread: How to change fork oil guide - complete with photos NEW TOPIC NEW POLL POST REPLY
tuusinii


Pro
Posts: 1031
posted April 14, 2003 05:46 AM        
How to change fork oil guide - complete with photos

OK. This topic pops out ones and a while... So after I last weekend changed my forkoils - I decided to took couple of photos and show to everybody how You can change the oils without special tools...

Ok here is the start:

First loosen the bolt holding top triple tree and also loosen the top nut of the fork - its much easier when it is in the bike!


Then loosen the preload adjusters all the way to top(softest setting)


Then lift the front end up by some usefull way. Here is mine:


Then start removing front wheel by removing brake calipers


After that loosen the bottom tripple tree bolts and remove front fork. The bolts are little tricky to reacm - You may find it easier to remove some of the plastick.


Here is the tricky part! Use tie-down to compress the spring. Use also one of those ties to hold the tiedown in the collar and secure it with the bolts:


Here is another photo:


After compressing the spring You may have to pull the top of the fork little up to reach to the bolt securing the top part:


These are the parts You have to remove. Be carefull when uncompressing the spring - so things wont blow up. This is also a good way to measure the free length of the spring.


After that turn the fork upside down an let the old oil drain out. Collect it to a container - be green!!!


After that put new oils in and measure the oil level - should be 102mm+-2mm. Dont trust on amount of oil. And assebly is reversal of disassembly - don't forget to put that rebound dambing adjusting rod back!!! And after that do the same to the another fork. When assembling the wheel back its good to put some grease on the wheel oilseals to help to keep the collars in place:


And at the same time - You can also lift the rear up and add a spacer to lift rear end. This will make the bike handle better - its recommended at least by Kawasaki Germany. You need to lift the fuel tank up and down there there is big bolt - the top bolt of the schock:


Loosen it and add this to the top of the shock:


You can get these from the dealer or make Your own - like I did. I used thickness of 4mm - 0.5mm short of KHI recommendations - didn't wanted to make too big change.

I also changed my first tire - with the tools I ordered couple weeks ago and got last friday. And thanks to advices it was quite easy.


And to make this even longer post here is couple of pics of our rides:

The ZX12 '00


And another


And my fathers Z1300 '86


And another


And also my brothers KTM Adventure '00


And another


And finaly all together


And another





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Otis


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posted April 14, 2003 06:21 AM        
Great stuff TUU, thanks

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vozizm


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posted April 14, 2003 06:47 AM        
good read....
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wannabe


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posted April 14, 2003 08:48 AM        
Great post!!
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Zhooligan


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Posts: 3829
posted April 14, 2003 08:52 AM        
Good post. Your not a motorcycle enthusiast are you?!
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lou_zx12r


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Posts: 196
posted April 14, 2003 10:54 AM        Edited By: lou_zx12r on 14 Apr 2003 11:56
forks!

That looks nice and easy. Thanks. are there any tips that you can share that keep us 1st timers out of trouble when doing the forks? I have yet to do a set of forks but I will do them when the time comes. Did you change the springs or just the seals and fluid? I would like to know more on what to take advantage of once it's all apart.
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2000 ZX12R 40shot
2012 ZX14R
2009 Concours 14

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tuusinii


Pro
Posts: 1031
posted April 14, 2003 11:17 AM        
Yes one thing I forget to mention was that its better to write down your suspension settings before you unscrew them! And I only changed the oils - no need to change to seals if theyre not broken.
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fish_antlers


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posted April 15, 2003 05:49 PM        
wow... someone has some time on their hands! thanks fer the fotos!
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deathpulse


Pro
Posts: 1688
posted April 15, 2003 07:26 PM        
FANTASIC POST!!!!!!! I wonder if I am brave enough to try this on my own now....
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tuusinii


Pro
Posts: 1031
posted April 15, 2003 10:59 PM        
Well it dosn't take THAT much time. Know on my second try it was something like 3 hours. And I did quite slowly - not to mess things up. And if someone dosen't know the weigth of the oil - recommended is 10W and You gonno need almost one littre of it (or 1 quart should be OK) if You don't spill it out. Be carefull.
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VincentHill


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posted April 16, 2003 02:26 AM        
When I bought my Shock Spring compressor from Race Tech, I also bought his Fork Spring Compressor also. COmpared to Kawasaki, and how his lookedm $125.00 did not look too bad, Now I am Sure. (I plan to get the Ohlins Spring and the Gold Valve plus his "Suspension Fluid" and do the Job) Tuu your folks must get over Hating Bikes so much Thanks for the time spent to document!
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harryzx-12


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posted April 16, 2003 02:27 AM        
Good post! Thanks for the photos.
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kcadby


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posted April 18, 2003 03:47 PM        
3 hours???
Looks to me that you were moving so fast that...I couldn't even see your hands in any of the pictures!?!?!

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Bikelover


Novice Class
Posts: 64
posted April 18, 2003 08:48 PM        
Great post. I'm interested in the tire changing tools. Care to post a list with source and prices?
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VincentHill


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posted April 19, 2003 05:00 AM        
I just got the Shock SPring COmpressor and fork spring compressor from Race Tech. Nice pieces of work. After seeing Kawasaki's and Race Tech, Buy the Race tach for $125 and you will always be in control. I will be putting in Ohlins SPrings and Race Tech Gold Valve!
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slug


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Posts: 1433
posted April 19, 2003 06:26 AM        
wow, mine doesn't require a compressor tool to get the cap off....

i guess the slightly heavier 12 needs more preload?
i mean it isn't all THAT much heavier than my 600. interesting.

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